Atención: Weekend Escapes. Wine Growing Regions Of México

By Frank "Sugar" Hudson

The Mexican wine industry is exploding.  With vineyards and wineries being opened everywhere. With reds, whites and sparkling wines coming from all parts of the country, it is truly a giant leap for the industry. México’s diverse climates from ocean-cooled valleys to high-desert plateaus and open highland plains there is always the perfect climate for growing grapes.

Early history of wine in México goes back to 1597 with the establishment of Casa Madero in the Valle de Parras. Mexican wines carry no appellation designation as you would find in Europe but usually carry the name of the region or valley where they are grown.  This is unlike tequila and mescal which in México are definitely appellation controlled. I count eight major  growing regions in México for wines, most extending across the northern part of the country.

Today we want to look at the growing regions around Querétaro, Guanajuato and San Miguel de Allende. This area is mostly high elevation with cooler nights. The area lends itself to crisp whites and lighter reds. Traditional-method sparkling wines produced by a Sala Vivé by Freixenet, Viñedos La Redonda, Cavas Donato does, well with the light clay soils.  The main grapes grown in this area are Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Tempranillo. There is a now a lot of experimentation with blended wines. Notable producers are Cuna de Tierra, Dos Búhos, Tres Raíces, San Lucas/San Francisco.

The climate in these areas runs from hot and dry to beautiful spring like temperatures.

Most vineyards use drip irrigation; some deal with saline water. Night harvesting and canopy management are common. The elevation of 5400 feet to 7000 feet gives acidity and an aromatic lift to the flavors. This region around Querétaro and Guanajuato blends seem to do well.

Don’t shy away from the house blends but expect higher prices than imported blends. The vineyards are small and farming is costly.  If you’re going for a wine tasting, reservations are usually appreciated.

In our next issue we will cover day trips to these wineries. It will always be Bon Appetit!