Sacred Foods: Huitlacoche, the truffle of México

By Catherine Marenghi

In México it is a delicacy, as ancient as corn, consumed by native peoples for thousands of years. It’s called huitlacoche (pronounced wheat-la-COACH-ay). In the U.S., it has the inelegant name “corn smut.” For newcomers to San Miguel, it inspires curiosity in some, revulsion in others.

Huitlacoche is typically a gray and black fungus that grows naturally on ears of corn, resembling swollen and misshapen kernels. Sometimes the color varies according to the color of the corn it grows from, which may range from white to yellow, black, or red.

Huitlacoche is classified by the U.S. Department of Agriculture as a “pest” because the fungus (Ustilago maydis) can attack and destroy corn crops. For this reason, transporting fresh, raw ears of corn or raw smut galls across the U.S. border is strictly prohibited. Canned, jarred, and frozen products are sterilized and legal to purchase and consume in the U.S. But while foraging wild smut or intentionally cultivating it is technically legal for individuals, it is highly discouraged by U.S. agricultural agencies, who consider corn smut a crop disease. Another reason why huitlacoche is rarely seen “north of the border” because corn in the U.S. is often genetically modified. In México, using genetically modified corn seeds is forbidden. The Mexican government even amended its constitution to prohibit genetically modified corn. After signing the reform into law, President Claudia Sheinbaum stated in a press conference that its primary objectives are to “guarantee biodiversity, food sovereignty, and the health of Mexicans.”

In México, huitlacoche is a seasonal delicacy, although it is somewhat expensive for most budgets. Those who cultivate corn may harvest it freely, but for others, huitlacoche is typically found in gourmet food shops or mushroom purveyors.

David Jahnke, a popular San Miguel chef and cooking instructor, is a huitlacoche enthusiast. He is especially passionate about pre-Hispanic and traditional Mexican mestiza cooking. He has over 29 years of experience in gastronomy. Jahnke first acquired his passion for traditional Mexican cuisine while working as a chef at an Acapulco hotel. He was fascinated by an older Mexican woman who prepared all the food for the Mexican workers. It was unlike any food he had known. “When most people think of Mexican cuisine, they might think of churros, or flan. Often these are European foods. I was interested in foods with more ancient Mexican origins.”

México’s cuisine is recognized on the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity list since 2010. This prestigious recognition highlights the unique ingredients and techniques that have been part of Mexican culture for centuries.

Jahnke described huitlacoche as “the truffle of México.” Like truffles, huitlacoche is all the more prized because of its limited availability. In México, you typically won’t find huitlacoche between December and May, before the rainy season starts.  It grows naturally when corn husks start to open and rainwater penetrates the husk. The mold that forms is best eaten when it is firm and fresh, but it loses its flavor if the huitlacoche is allowed to get mushy. “I put out some YouTube videos many years ago, in English, and German, and Spanish, about huitlacoche and how to prepare it. I made tacos, soups, and other dishes. The comments were fascinating. Newcomers to Mexican cuisine think huitlacoche is dangerous, like a plague. They don't want to try it because they have no experience with it. But it’s delicious!”

In San Miguel, huitlacoche may be found in season at Soriana, Bodega Aurrera, and local markets or placitas. Jahnke advises, “The kernels should look very shiny, almost like plastic. I like to prepare them very simply. I add salt, garlic and onion, some butter, and cook them for just two or three minutes. You can mix in some shitake mushrooms, which creates a rich umami flavor. I also like to make jalapeno peppers stuffed with huitlacoche and Oaxaca cheese.”

More about David Jahnke and his cooking classes is at sanmigueldeallendecookingclasses.com

Catherine Marenghi is an author and poet and has published five books. She has been active in the San Miguel literary community for more than a decade.