Who Is Who On Our Streets: Tacos And More…

By Natalie Taylor

You can find the taco just about anywhere in the world, and it screams out “México!” The origins of this humble food are pre-Hispanic, going back almost three thousand years. The indigenous peoples of México used freshly made corn tortillas as vessels or utensils to hold food. There are various stories about its name, but most likely it comes from “tlahco” a Nahuatl (Aztec) word meaning “in the middle.” This perfectly describes the action of placing a filling in the middle and then folding it in half.

The ancient people used fillings quite different from those we find today. Instead they used whole fish, nopal, frijol, chile, and even insects. These days we have many varieties, with arrachera probably the most common one. The very popular taco al pastor was created in México City in 1966, copying the Middle-Eastern shawarma stuffed inside pita bread, but using pork instead of lamb and tortillas, of course!

Some interesting facts. The largest taco ever produced, earning a place in the Guinness World Book of Records, was made in Baja California in 2003. It weighed 750 kg, and measured 10.95 meters by 86 cm. Apparently, Baja California, is the site of taco extravaganza because they also have the most expensive “taco de oro,” with an edible gold tortilla filled with caviar, Kobe beef, brie cheese, lobster, and white and black truffles.

Ambulatory taco stands became popular in the nineteenth century and are ubiquitous in any city or town. We have several of these kiosks in different parts of the city. I am not enthusiastic about street food anywhere in the world, so for years the only tacos I had were in restaurants. But there are so many people nibbling and seemingly enjoying these savory treats, I decided it was time to plunge into the tlahco—the middle of it.

How do you know which are good? A long line is a reasonable indicator, and so is the stand’s longevity. Of the several I tasted, none disappointed. Your choice will most likely have to do with when and where you happen to be.

If you are looking for a taco stand near Centro, there is one on Mesones right in front of the Plaza Cívica. It is called Tacos de Pato, the nickname of Patricio, the owner. This is probably the newest addition, as they have only been here for eight months. But they’ve had a restaurant just down the street for many years. It was 11 a.m., neither breakfast nor lunch, but there it was, only steps from the bus stop where we were heading. For the sake of the study I ordered a taco and got a chance to talk to Sahaily, the young woman preparing the food. The taco de arrachera came out sizzling, served on a corn tortilla with whatever additional condiments one wants. As good as they come!

The next sampling came along Nemesio Diez, near the corner of Ancha. On the south side of the street are two places, one is Dani’s Tacos, and right next to it is Lucy’s Tacos. They have been here for years, and the area is always bustling with customers sitting on the low brick walls, tacos in hand. Both have friendly service, tasty tacos, and plenty of condiments. After sampling their tacos, the only reasonable decision was a tie.

Across the street, next to Cava Sautto is another one—Fernanda’s taco stand. The owner, Fernanda, is a chef from Michoacan where she had a restaurant. She came to San Miguel four years ago and opened this stand. A few days before, I overheard a man in the Jardin: “….and those are the best hamburgers in town!” he declared to another fellow sitting a few feet from him. When I inquired where, he explained the exact location of the taco stand “on Ancha by the wine shop.” I had already tried and liked Fernanda’s tacos; now I had to sample the burger.

While she fried the burger and onions (you choose what you want on it), she handed me a complimentary quesadilla. With a bit of salsa, it was to die for! Great tortillas made by a young woman on the spot. The stranger in the Jardín was right—the burger was fabulous. And big enough to share! If only they gave Michelin stars to street food…

Now, dear reader, I pass the baton (or plate) to you. Go try them all yourself!