Tres Raíces Winery: Enjoying Wines From The Bajío Region

hace 8 horas
3 Min. de lectura

By Randolph Rogers

The Bajío Wine region, which we will explore from Querétaro to Dolores Hidalgo, is in its infancy, which is ironic given that this state, Guanajuato, is known to be the first place in the Americas where wine grapes were planted.

The new wineries represent vast investments in plantings, production facilities, and impressive hospitality venues. The entrepreneurs are betting that the ascendant middle class in México will outpace the rest of the continent and that the rise in tourism in the Bajío region will continue to prosper. The fertile soil and the moderate climate are ideal for many grape varietals. When I survey the area, I don’t see landscapes that you’d encounter in the familiar wine regions of France, Italy, or Chile. The growing conditions in the Bajío are ideal for wine grape cultivation. The long growing season, warm days, and cool nights let the hanging fruit rest. This phenomenon is called “diurnal fluctuation”, which is why tropical and colder climes aren’t suitable for wine grapes. The soil is a combination of sandy loam and clay, which drains well, laced with mineral-rich calcareous soil, similar to the limestone soil in Bordeaux. The same soil profile and climate conditions are also ideal for olive cultivation.

In appearance, the Bajío is more similar to the landscapes in Spain in the Rioja and Ribera del Duero districts. I would suspect that the best varietals for the Bajío would be the Spanish: Albariño, Tempranillo, and Garnacha (Grenache). However, as in California, the Bordeaux varietals gain the most attention: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, and my personal favorite, Petit Verdot. The consumer loves Bordeaux varietals and blends, and they sell.

One of the most impressive wineries in the Bajío is Tres Raíces, just twenty minutes from San Miguel de Allende. Tres Raíces is an ambitious endeavor, conjuring the notion that “if we build it, they will come”. The visitor will be awe-struck by the grand architecture, the beautiful interiors of slate, alabaster, stone, and tile, and the vast vistas from every room with floor-to-ceiling windows. If you are not a believer in this region’s seriousness about quality wine production, then I persuade you to experience Tres Raíces. This place is a feast for the eyes. The question remains: Do the wines and the food at the restaurant measure up? The answer is a resounding yes.

Wines of the Month:

As an ongoing feature, we will highlight notable wines that embrace the seasonality and palate of San Miguel. As we head into the summer and warmer days, it is appropriate to pair wines with olives, cheeses, meats, fruit, and crudites that may be served to guests on your terraza or patio. These two wines are priced right ($360 mxn) and fit the occasion of your summer soiree.

Tres Raíces Sauvignon Blanc: It has a wild, flowery aspect, combined with citrus and melon notes. Tres Raíces Sauvignon Blanc is well-balanced, crisp, and the acidity is not too pronounced. It is a crowd pleaser, so I recommend more than one bottle at your function.
Tres Raíces Rosé: This marvelous, bright Rosé is made using the traditional method with Grenache grapes and blended with Caladoc grapes. The color is pale pink, which belies its intense flavor. It hints of stone fruit, especially peaches, and even watermelon. It is less acidic than a Sauvignon Blanc, and you may not want to share a bottle – only with good friends. Rosé is a summer wine, and those who believe in “Rosé all day” will be delighted, and wine snobs who think Rosé is not a proper wine will be pleasantly surprised at how drinkable this wine is.

Tres Raíces has an array of white wines, a Rosé brut (sparkling wine), and a deep bench of red wines, which we will taste in autumn. I’m most interested in their Tempranillo Reserva, Nebbiolo-Sangiovese, and their Caladoc Reserva. They do have an Ensamble Tinto at $380 mxn, which is a good mid-day comida wine.