Sacred Foods: Chocolate, Gift Of The Gods

By Catherine Marenghi

Among the sacred foods of México, chocolate stands out. Cacao trees were first domesticated in present-day Ecuador and later in Mesoamerica, where cacao became an elite elixir some 4,000 years ago. The Maya and Aztecs, possibly even the Olmecs, considered cacao a gift from the gods and used it as currency, medicine, and in ceremonies.

Spanish conquistadors encountered cacao in 1519 and brought it to Spain, where it was used in medicine. Cacao spread across Europe and transformed from a drink to a solid product in the 19^th century with the rise of Swiss and British chocolate makers.

The word chocolate was first recorded in Spanish in 1579 and in English in 1604. It derives from the Nahuatl chocolatl. Early texts used the term cacahuatl (bitter water) for cacao drinks.

A 100-Year Family Tradition

Few appreciate chocolate more than Ramón Patiño, proprietor of JOHFREJ C&V Chocolates on Calle Jesús. Ramón is one of nine grandchildren of Elvira Villaseñor, who founded the chocolate shop in 1920. The business uses Elvira’s original recipes in its four locations – two near México City, one in Querétaro, and one in San Miguel, where it has operated for 25 years.

“Some might not think of México as a source of fine chocolates, but ours is as good as any you will find anywhere. All our chocolates are handmade. We use the finest Mexican cacao, grown in the Tabasco state in southeastern México. It is processed to our specifications and comes to us in 5-kilo blocks, unsweetened. We add ingredients, form, and package the chocolates ourselves. We haven’t changed the recipes for over 100 years.”

Abuela Elvira worked from the age of 18 in large chocolate factory where she acquired a deep love of chocolate. The JOHFREJ shop displays a black-and-wide panoramic photo of Elvira with dozens of co-workers outside the factory, which closed in 1920.

Then Elvira started making her own chocolates. “It was a labor of love. She passed this love to her children and grandchildren. I started helping with the business when I was just five years old,” Ramón recalled. Will he pass the business to the next generation? “My daughter is only 11 years old. It’s hard to say what she will do. It's important to have a passion for this work, or else you will choose something safer.”

History of Mexican Chocolate

The Maya considered cacao beans a sacred gift. Their depiction in ancient Mayan hieroglyphs confirms their significance. Cacao was consumed at Teotihuacan (100 BCE–550 CE), where cacao residues have been found in pottery. Cacao even reached the U.S. Southwest, where residues were found at Chaco Canyon (circa 900–1150 CE).

The process of transforming cacao to a drink was a skill passed down through generations, often performed by women. Once the football-shaped cacao pods ripened, they were harvested. These vibrantly colored pods contained rows of cacao beans embedded in a sweet, white pulp. The beans were extracted for fermentation, typically over several days. Then the beans were dried in the sun.

To enhance the flavor, dried cacao beans were roasted over a fire and then ground into a paste using a metate, a stone grinding table. The paste was mixed with water and flavorings such as chili peppers, honey, flowers, vanilla, allspice, and even psychoactive substances in some ceremonial contexts. The final step was frothing. Like ancient baristas, the Maya poured the mixture back and forth between vessels, often from a height, to create a frothy foam. 

The Maya used cacao as a stimulant and mood enhancer, and to treat digestive problems, fatigue, and fever. Modern science has confirmed that cacao contains antioxidants, flavonoids, and other compounds that have been shown to improve cardiovascular health and cognitive function.

A gift from the gods indeed.

Catherine Marenghi is the author of five books and is active in the local literary community.