Mezcal Spotlight: Mezcalería Artlalli

By Jonathan Lockwood

I didn’t know so many Sanmiguelenses would enjoy these Mezcal Spotlights, but not many days seem to pass without someone mentioning them to me. How nice. Another thing I didn’t know: just how many mezcal focused spots there were locally. If you’re counting, this one makes number six, and we’re not finished.

Mezcalería Artlalli is on Ancha de San Antonio on the other side of the street from the Instituto and right across from La Coronela Live. It was the brainchild of Cristina Montes who was born in Guadalajara–but who’s bounced all over México: from Hidalgo to Torreón to Patzcuaro to CDMX, and even living in San Diego for a time.

What I only realized about Artlalli during my recent interview with Cristina was that, for her, mezcal was not at all the sole focus. She’d opened a handcraft store and art gallery in Guanajuato in 2010, along with a restaurant. She then brought the same concept to San Miguel in 2015 with a second location, including the mezcalería, in 2024.

It was always about the art you see. Cristina’s mother was an artist, so her entire childhood was spent exploring, discovering and sharing Mexican art–often surrounded by a community of artists. She recalls how her mother became enamored with miniature art pieces and how she herself fell in love with them. These tiny, handmade pieces were for her just like gems: no two exactly alike. So precious.

So when she discovered artisanal mezcal she realized it was no different. Small batches handmade by talented men and women, carrying forward generations of wisdom. They were great artists in their own right. And each distillation was distinct from the rest. When that year’s Tobalá was gone, it was gone forever, never to be replicated exactly.

Cecilia and I had stopped by Artlalli briefly almost a year ago for a splash or two. But Flavio of Casa Murciélago suggested we meet there one weekend recently, and Cristina was in the building. I ordered the Tlayuda del Huerto full of mushrooms, pimiento, hierba santa and a delicious tomato salsa. When I sent the photo to Cecilia she came over too for one with mole negro and pollo. Some of the best simple Oaxacan food we’d had in a while.

I have to say it… When you’re at Mezcalería Artlalli, it’s not clear…what it is. Is it a restaurant? Well yes. Is it a bar? Certainly. But while there are tables and chairs for seating, that day a group of actors came in, and Cristina had us all move to a room situated with sofas. We sat, chatted, laughed and got to know each other better, even sharing some mezcales.  It felt less like an “establishment,” and more like just getting comfortable in someone’s living room. That’s probably why the place stuck with me. Most mezcalerías I’ve been to draw a clear line: here’s the bar, here’s the bottle, order, drink, go. (Not that there’s anything wrong with that!) But Artlalli doesn’t. It folds you in, like you’re already part of the group. Even if you’ve just walked in off Ancha. That’s rare. And in a town that already has plenty of mezcal, it gives Artlalli its own lane—not bigger or louder, just more human.

You won’t find a massive collection of mezcales at Artlalli. Cristina’s goal was not just to have a pretentious display of hundreds of bottles, but instead to take the time to find mezcales that are of high quality. They have some nice offerings from Noble Coyote, a fine brand. There were bottles from Espina Negra, including a solid Madrecuixe and a beautiful ensamble. Ulani and Gran Nahualli were represented too, and she was getting a new Espadín in that day. But, as you and I have probably both learned over time: you just can’t drink all the mezcal. So I left some for next time.

Cristina calls her work a puzzle: art, food, mezcal, people. All the pieces are here, and she’s still fitting them together. For the rest of us, it means Artlalli isn’t just another mezcal bar in town—it’s an evolving story. One I suspect I’ll be telling again down the road.

Jonathan Lockwood is a Mezcal lover, explorer, and collector and writes the Mezcal Maniac Substack. mezcalmaniac.substack.com