Atención: Eye on Architecture. The Gardens Of San Miguel

By Cathi House

The Jardín Principal of San Miguel is the beating heart of this beautiful town, in which the past and the future are linked with the joys of daily life.  Leafy trees carefully shaped meld together to create an embracing ceiling for those seated on the many benches of the Jardin.  Birds twitter overhead, the rustle of the leaves in a gentle breeze, soft sounds of water in fountains that cool the air - all work together to create a peaceful space in which to gather.

The Jardín is quiet during the day, with single souls who watch life from a protected retreat.  As the day turns to evening, more people come, then more, and more - until the entire Jardin is filled with life. Balloon sellers add their colorful bouquets to the swirl of humanity; children toss silvery balloons into the air in rockets of glittering color.  Families sit together, snacking on homemade ice cream; lovers find quiet shadows to share sweet kisses; adolescent boys and girls swirl in opposite directions, shy and giggling, making eye contact and eventually finding their spouse in this traditional dance of love. Mariachi music wraps around lovers, telling the stories of passion. Special days are marked by cut-paper flags or carpets made of grains, beans and colored flower petals in larger-than-life art. Altars appear for Day of the Dead; stages are set up for concerts and performances. Antique cars and bicycles gather for races or shows.  Children don wings and become butterflies to mark the equinox or angels to welcome the risen Christ.

San Miguel was once described as having an excess of festivities - celebrations still abound.  Yet after centuries they have lost nothing of their depth or meaning and are deeply rooted in the fabric of this place. The indigenous roots live on, some parts as yet undiluted by the passage of time. The harmony between these worlds is in no way more evident than in the celebrations. The sounds of celebration reach from this living plaza over the colorful walls and directly into the courtyards of nearby homes, beckoning the residents with music and the promise of yet another joyful experience. The church bells of the Parroquia sound out the hours and days; children laugh and chase the birds; visitors pause for a photo with the church; the shoeshine man keeps everyone’s shoes polished.  You can buy a newspaper and read what is going on in the world, or you can sit on a bench and hear it from your neighbors.  Ice cream and popcorn vendors add flavor; fountains, birds and children add the music.

Almost every home, and certainly every church and restaurant have patios that are mini versions of the Jardín - places to share, to celebrate in, to sit quietly in and contemplate life.  Rooftops offers more outdoor experiences - gardens, studios, terraces, barking dogs and crowing roosters.  At night the sounds of crickets and frogs join the fray.

Parque Juárez waits quietly during school hours, its fountains still, reflecting the sky and trees, waiting for the daily joy of children playing, running, climbing. The Plaza Cívica with its impressive statue of Ignacio Allende hosts fairs of every description, filled with families.

Trees peek over walls, balconies flourish with life, bougainvillea climbs stone walls, potted plants line rooftops, humming birds flit between colorful blossoms, pausing in flight to study any new-comer to the area.

The lushness of the gardens and plazas of San Miguel speak of more than plantings - they are a living embrace for everyone who pauses in the busyness of daily activities to realize how precious life is, how much there is to celebrate, how fortunate we are to live in such a world of color, friendship, family, flavor... love.

Overlooking Parque Juárez stands a cross with words that speak deeply of the Mexican soul:

Air Fire Light

Humans Earth Plants

Animals Water Insects

Beliefs Emotions Feelings

I am we

Everything that you see, hear, smell, think, do... even the unknown and invisible

is the manifestation of God

Flow with love

Act with respect

Raise your consciousness

- Gómez Trolle

Cathi House is a resident andpracticing architect in San Miguelsince 1992. Cathi and Steven’s fifth book, “San Miguel De Allende: The SoulOf México” was recently published.  

Contact - cathi@houseandhouse.com

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