Atención: Eye on Architecture. The Walls Of San Miguel

By Cathi House

At 6,200 feet altitude, the sharp, clear lines of shadows embellish the colorful walls of San Miguel with layers of patterns cast from exquisitely carved stone moldings, ornate lanterns, balconies draped in greenery... Lime-washed colors glow in the sunlight as though they are illuminated from within. San Miguel has a complex mix of centuries of architectural styles, protected by INAH. A National Monument since 1926, and a UNESCO site since 2008, San Miguel’s historic center has been protected from modern intrusions such as traffic lights, billboards and neon signs.

Ancient walls draped with bougainvillea; cobblestone streets lending an old world clatter to passing vehicles; intricately carved stone churches grace every neighborhood, the music of their bells adorning every hour. The main square, the Jardin, is the center of life, its shady benches always filled, the balloon seller’s colorful bouquets add to the swirl of humanity. Birds twitter in carefully shaped trees, fountains cool the air, mariachi music wraps around lovers. The newspaper seller, shoe-shine man, horse drawn wagon selling homemade ice cream, children gleefully running… this dance of life plays out every day in this heart of San Miguel, so full of what life can be when a community comes together in the simple joys of visiting with friends, sharing news, watching children play...

Spanish Colonial architecture, often called Mexican Baroque, is a unique style. Quietly observing the moldings, one can almost feel the flow of Moorish traditions from North Africa into southern Spain, then across the ocean to mix with local materials and Indigenous masons to become what it is here in San Miguel - luscious - in color, texture, shadow, moldings and balconies. Most of the old walls are stone or adobe, plastered over then finished with ‘cal’ - lime wash colored with natural pigments. The result is walls that are bold yet feel almost alive to the touch. Cantera, a volcanic stone found throughout the country is the material of choice for the carved moldings that grace every building.

Walls are further decorated with potted plants along the roof, garlands of flowers around doorways, exquisitely ornate balconies. Decorative light fixtures cast wild shadows; crosses or small statues crown peaks or corners. Under a buttress of the San Francisco church, it is still possible to see the original geometric painting that once covered the church. The buildings change as the sun casts living shadows that tell the time of day and year. Decorations are hung and removed in a regular rhythm of festivities. The walls of San Miguel embrace their inhabitants with warmth and beauty, celebrating holidays with them, echoing the music of life within every home, embracing the streets for every procession, reflecting the love the inhabitants feel both for and within these walls.

Steven and I have come to love San Miguel deeply, and I have had the added pleasure of working here, one of the great joys of my life. During my 37-year love affair with this country,

I have designed more than 40 homes in San Miguel and two in Baja, working intimately with builders and the artisans and materials that brought us to México in the first place. These men have given me the opportunity to do work not possible in the US and their hearts and spirits add a quality to my projects that makes my soul sing.  

We have so much more than our home in one of the most extraordinary places we have ever known - we also have a community of cherished people who have become integral to our lives - friends, neighbors and co-workers who make life so much richer than we imagined. Celebrating birthdays, weddings, quinceañeras and funerals with them - seeing life through their eyes - has transformed us in more ways than we can count. Days feel longer, filled with the pleasures of life - church bells and processions, the calls of the trash truck, the scissor sharpener, the elote (corn) seller - simple things that pass without notice elsewhere become precious in a life that feels more significant, more gracious and definitely more wondrous - embraced by these luminous walls.

Cathi House is a resident and practicing architect in San Miguel since 1992. Cathi’s work has beenwidely published and has wonnumerous prestigious design awards. Cathi and Steven’s fifth book, “San Miguel De Allende: The SoulOf México” was recently published.  

Contact at cathi@houseandhouse.com